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Fashion loves debuts. Even in these days when the designer’s chair game is not over, a new start is attracting attention. The Fall/Winter 2023 season has offered runway watchers his third for the first time. In Paris, Harris Reid and Ludovic de Saint-Sernin launched their collections for Nina Ricci and Anne Demeulemeester respectively, but it was Daniel Lee’s Burberry that took the top spot. It was a shot over the bow. vogue runway‘s most watched shows. It’s not hard to explain why: British heritage brands have far more brand recognition than Ricci or his Demeulemeester, and Lee’s career-building mandate at Bottega Veneta. and has spawned a string of hits from his Pouch bag to his Puddle boots. Will his director of new Burberry creative continue to capture the industry’s attention?September question.
Again, the lack of a designer in the top spot could create a story of its own. appointed to fill the job vacated when he suddenly left the brand.The fall collection was designed by an in-house team awaiting Michele’s arrival. It didn’t have the auteur stamp that Michele’s collection had, but it still ranked number five on the list. , but the real secret may be that the mashup of eras and references (from Tom Ford to Michele) will appeal to Gen Z digital natives. .
Speaking of which, the distorted cast of Gen Z, which includes model Zaya Wade and actors Emma Corrin and Mia Goth, in an irreverent collection that mostly strips their pants off, marks Miu Miu’s first appearance on this list. I helped. It looks like the designer was talking! Miuccia Prada has had a very good season. Miu Miu was her fourth and Prada her third. On the anniversary of the invasion of Ukraine, she and her co-creative director Raf Her Simmons argued that love, not war, was the answer. Their gentle Prada collection borrows from the language of weddings, sublimating her uniforms to humble service.
A year ago, Demna’s Balenciaga collection dealt with the war in Ukraine, but after two advertising scandals shook the Kering-owned brand to its foundations, he recommitted to the act of making clothes, not glasses. It was the season’s most-anticipated show, which updated his skills as a tailor (the movement of his four-legged pants was phenomenal) and the Maison’s founder’s code, whether in the form of an inflatable bike. seriously demonstrated his ability to A jacket that interprets Cristobal’s cocoon with his 21st-century techniques, and an elegant round-shoulder gown that gives the couturier a modern take on one of his 1960s silhouettes. Balenciaga is number seven on the list. See how the rest of the top 10 changed below.
1. Burberry, standings last season: newcomers
3. Prada, ranked last season: 7
4th place Miu Miu, last season’s ranking: new entry
5. Gucci’s standings last season: newcomers
7. Balenciaga, ranked last season: 5
8. Chanel ranked last season: 3
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